The Santa Catalina Mountains
The Tucson Mountains
The Rincon Mountains
The Santa Rita Mountains
Let's see what they have to offer to the Mountain Trekker:
The Santa Catalina Mountains, north
of Tucson, offer more rugged hiking trails than could be climbed in a lifetime.
But I plan on trying! These are the trails which lead to areas that I enjoy
most. I find more to satisfy my curiosity here than anywhere else. From
a base elevation of 2300 feet, these ancient and heavily eroded ranges pass
through seven ecosystems climbing as high as 9300 feet. I used to access
the high landrons in my '72 Volkswagen Super Beetle and then coast downhill
for the return. It's a very economical and rewarding journey which
is always exhilarating and rejuvenating. Alas, I've gone upscale and am now
driving a 1988 Toyota Camry Station Wagon. These are the
trails which lead to my favorite areas for peace, exhilaration, endorphins
and solace.
Within a 20 minute drive from my front door, I can be hiking through bonafide
wilderness of the Front Range. Isn't that special! On the edges
of the city lay magnificent cactus forests, unlike anywhere else on Earth.
Several of my favorite hikes on the lowland periphery of the Catalina
Mountains deserve mention. These hikes are best enjoyed during the cooler
season or in the early mornings:
Pontatoc Ridge Trail The
spectacular views and ease of access make this an unforgettable hike. It
begins at the north end of Alvernon off Skyline and is about 6 miles roundtrip.
I have climbed this 4 times in the past ten years and found it to be
incomparable. The best sunset I have ever witnessed was from the spine of
Pontatoc. The climb mounts the ridgeline of Pontatoc and is a
very tough, steep ascent. It's easy to wander off trail, but getting
lost is not an option, since you can always see your target.
Finger Rock Trail. also begins at the north "end of Alvernon" off Skyline but is about 12 miles round-trip. The elevation climb of 3100 to 7255 feet makes it an extremely steep trail. Many hikers have commented that it is the steepest trail in Southern Arizona. Believe them! It is a beautiful area and wildlife includes gila monsters and hummingbirds. The trail ends at Mount Kimball and the vegetation is diverse throughout the trail.
Ventana Canyon Trail begins at the Ventana Canyon Resort parking lot and leads 2.7 miles up to the Maiden Pools, a refreshing destination. It crosses the creek over a dozen times as it ascends through a picturesque canyon and then steeply climbs the face of the mountain. The pools and falls are just over the saddle crest and are an incredibly refreshing reward to those who make the effort to reach them.
Pima Canyon Trail starts at the end of Ina Road and climbs across a broad bajada and then meanders into the canyon itself. Recent developments have diminished the raw beauty of the lower area, thoughtlessly building million dollar homes on sensitive virgin sonoran desert landscape. Beyond the desert rapage, lay a world of pristine canyon hiking and great beauty.
Pusch Ridge Wilderness extends from the desert floor adjacent to metropolitan Tucson to peaks covered with pine, fir, aspen, and maple. This 56,933-acre wilderness was created in 1978. The great variety of vegetation and wildlife found as one ascends from 2,800 to 9,000 feet above sea level is truly remarkable. Lower elevations are extremely steep and rugged with spectacular rocky bluffs and peaks. Water is scarce, but several live streams originating on the highest peaks offer some relief from the essentially dry Santa Catalina Mountains. There is an extensive trail system, and opportunities exist for day hiking as well as extended backpacking. Access can be gained easily at trailheads near the city, or by driving a paved highway to the upper elevations.
Aqua Caliente Trail climbs east of the Catalina Highway through great terrain that is unsurpassed in its desert beauty.
Several trails begin in the popular Sabino Canyon Recreation Area from the paved road. These are Esperero Canyon , Seven Falls and Blackett's Ledge. Beware that the Forest Service plans to begin charging for access to this area later in 1998.
Esperero Canyon is approximately 19 miles round-trip and leads deep into the wilderness, linking up with several other trails. It is extremely tough!
Seven Falls is a moderate hike that can be started at the parking lot (8.2 miles round-trip) or the Lower Bear Picnic Area by taking the tram up (4.4 miles round-trip.) The falls offer water nearly year-round and is a quick and beautiful getaway from the city.
Blackett's Ledge is one of the less travelled hikes. The trail begins near Bear Canyon and spurs off Telephone Trail. Blackett's Ledge is the monumental massif which lay between Sabino and Bear Canyons.
Up in the Sky Islands of the Catalina Mountains, numerous lofty hikes abound.
Molino Basin - Outstanding trail leading through mixed scrubland and oak forests to an impressive waterfall amphitheater. Generally dry throughout much of the year, during the spring melt and summer monsoons, Molino Creek is a cool and refreshing easily accessible escape from the heat of the valley. The new USFS toll booth lay just beneath this popular campground.
Upper Bear Canyon - I find this mixed conifer forest trail the first accessible area going up the mountain in which I can find that special quality of fragrance and spirit that completely rejuvenates. The trail begins in another campground which lazily ascends the beautiful Bear Creek canyon before steeply ascending towards a saddle beneath Green Mountain. Eventually, one can climb to the San Pedro Overlook and rejoin the road. This is one of my favorites because it offers the sweet pungency of the Ponderosa Pine forests, refreshing shade and avian populations.
Lizard Rock - Oh man! Rising like a battleship along the northern edge of Bear Canyon, this precipice provides a magestic and thoroughly awesome overview of the Tucson valley and the highlands of Mt. Lemon and Bigelow. The access is very steep and difficult, but thankfully short before one mounts the spine of the 'lizard'. From here, one scrambles on the crest of the rock until reaching a tremendous overlook. What a delightful alternative to Windy Point!
Geo Overlook - Celebrated as THE spot to contemplate the beginning of a new year, my birthday, Victor and I have climbed this for the last three or four years. Overlooking both Rose Canyon, Barnum Rock and a big stretch of the San Pedro Valley, this is a very short climb with a profoundly rewarding ledge for lunch. The trail begins at the overlook and climbs down the trail leading to Upper Bear Canyon before a spur leads up to the perch.
Mount Bigelow - Second highest peak in the Catalina Range. I've heard more frogs here than anywhere else on earth, following a monsoon gullywasher that made the amphibians very amorous. Although one can drive all the way to the top, that takes all the pleasure out of it. It is generally accessed by hikers who start at the Palisade Ranger station, right on the highway and climbs a mile or two before reaching the saddle, from which the Butterfly trail begins, leading to the summit or down into the valley. An interesting spur climbs to Kellogg Mountain. . The trail provides easy access to the highest peaks without a need to drive the extra 5 miles over to Mt. Lemmon. Hiking this area in the winter is an especially satisfying and profoundly beautiful. Read what Kevin had to say about it.
Green Mountain - An admirable peak which overlooks the San Pedro valley.
Box Trail and Springs - This newly discovered hike starts out on the east side of Upper Sabino Canyon. It starts out fairly flat and quickly reaches a magnificent plateau from which views in all directions can be observed. It drops steeply down a canyon which later yields the makings of a running spring, with a richly green and sculpted forest glen making the journey well worth the effort required to ascend.
The Marshall Gulch hike can be combined with the Aspen Loop trail to create a spectacular journey. This is a cool, relatively easy hike in the 8500 foot elevation where the variety of flora and fauna are more representative of Oregon than Arizona. This hike begins at the very end of the road (Marshall Gulch Picnic Area) in Summerhaven near Mount Lemmon. The hike is an rewarding 5.1 mile round-trip which begins with a stretch through magnificent groves of Aspen Trees, then up into the forest, around the Peak and finally finishing with a beautiful descent along the phenomenally verdant old growth forests which surround Marshall Creek. While hiking this loop, it is mandatory in my mind to walk out to lunch ledge. The view from this rocky outcrop overlooks the heart of the Catalina Mountains and provides a birds eye view of the Lemon ROck Fire Lookout. Without a doubt, one of my favorites.
They are perhaps the easiest to hike and lowest in elevation of the four mountain ranges that surround the desert metropolis of Tucson. Strikingly different from the others, they have been heavily volcanized. Hard as it is to believe, long ago this range once stood atop the Catalina mountains! They slid off the mountains and then metamorphosed into the range that is seen today. Of course, like all the others, they have been heavily eroded. This range is perhaps best known to locals as the location of Gates Pass, named after a road which winds its way through and over the mountains. Gates Pass is a spectacular place to watch the sunset and is heavily used for this purpose.
I like to cross the road and climb up past a number of small hills before winding around the east side of the tallest peak, overlooking the David Yetman park, an undeveloped stretch of raw Saguaro forest. I've been there when the clouds have swept in from the Pacific and cut me off from the entire world. Sitting on this peak looking down on a blanket of cottony clouds, snow dusting the nearby mountain, a very rare event indeed. These mountains hosts the other Saguaro National Park (West) , the Arizona Sonoran Desert Museum and The Old Tucson movie studio, all of which lay on the western side of the Pass.
The Tucson Mountains are full of many interlinking trails. One favorite is the trip up to Wasson Peak along the King Canyon Trail. This delightful trail begins in a parking lot directly across from the Desert Museum. The 8 mile round-trip hike climbs from 2600 to 4687 feet in elevation. The reward from the top is a panoramic view of Tucson basin and the surrounding mountain ranges. An alternate access route leads up the the saddle from the north side of the Sagauro National Park. This climb is somewhat easier although longer, but the numbers of other hikers is greatly reduced and more than makes up for the extra effort. Victor and I will never forget a winter hike that brought us to a small but incredibly lovely patch of California poppies.
The Saguaro National Park hosts the only known population of Saguaro cacti in the United States. It is divided into the East and the West Sections, miles apart from the other. It is unfortunate that the city failed to maintain the integrity and continuity of the forest, since it has been bladed, scraped and mutilated in vast areas. Still, each what remains are prime examples of the upland region of the Arizona Sonora desert. Until recently they were known as the Saguaro National Monument, until they were promoted to Park status in October of 1994. The East Park may be older and larger in size than the West Park, but the West has a more remote and unpolluted population.
The park hosts are many huge saguaro cacti which mature very slowly. In 25 years, they grow just 2 feet. Arms don't appear until the saguaro is about75 years old. Oldest saguaros reach 200 years, over 50 feet and 15,000 pounds. Supported by a strong frame of woody ribs, they grow in spurts, mainly during the summer rainy season. The cacti assume odd shapes, sometimes appearing almost human. The seeds of this desert tree are tiny but numerous. One saguaro produces tens of thousands of seeds in a year, and over 30 million throughout its life. Perhaps one of these will grow to adulthood.
The saguaros may die of many causes: old age, lightning, winds and severe droughts. Increasingly, air pollution and global warming are serious risk factors for the forest. Killing freezes are a prime cause as well. Grazing cattle trampled the young saguaro for many years in the area. The cattle were removed beginning in the late 1950's, but it will be a long time before the saguaro forest recovers. Today there are mainly very young and very old specimens. Creamy white flowers, the state flower, appear in early May and attract a wide variety of pollinators, primarily the White Winged dove.
The SAGUARO PARK WEST section is located off of Kinney Road. You can take the scenic route through Gates Pass by taking Speedway West. You'll see a breathtaking panorama of the mountains from this small winding road. (RV's are not recommended.) On the South you can take Ajo Way to Kinney Road, or on the North you can take Ina Road West and follow the signs. This stand of Saguaro is denser and more vigorous. The Information Center, open 8-5 daily, offers a few exhibits, books, maps, trail guides and advice. Naturalists talks or walks take place daily. Phone number is (520) 733-5158.
Something you won't want to miss are the ancient petroglyphs carved into the rock. Designs, animals and people are represented. But don't touch them! Penalties are very severe, and the rangers keep a close eye out. There are 5 scenic picnic areas , four that can be reached by road, and one by trail. These have shaded tables and outhouses, but no water. All trash must be packed out. A 100 yard paved trail beside the Information Center introduces the Saguaro and other plants of the Sonoran Desert. Desert Discovery Nature Trail makes a 1/2 mile loop. The 6-mile Bajada Loop Drive takes in the scenic countryside and passes through dense saguaro forest. This graded dirt road starts about 1.6 miles northwest of the Information Center. Valley View Overlook Trail begins at the one-way section of the loop drive and climbs to a beautiful panorama. Other trails wind through the desert to Wasson Peak (4,687 feet) and other destinations.
Both the East and the West sites were chosen because they have large stands of saguaro cacti, which grow only in portions of the Arizona and Mexican Sonoran desert. The East section was established in 1933 by president Hoover on his last day in office to preserve the large number of saguaro growing there. The West side was established in 1961 by President Kennedy after it was determined that many of the older plants were dying. When you are touring either park, keep an eye open for the endless varieties of birds and animals in the forest. Many people elect to explore the Parks on horseback, as horses are allowed on many trails. You won't want to miss these fantastic sights.
No desert teems with as much life and diverse terrain as the Sonoran. From giant cacti to minuscule hummingbirds, your own senses will enthrall you with the whirling oasis of life that is, in fact, the desert. Southeast Arizona averages 318 days of clear skies each year. Its light, aromatic air holds a peculiar quality best described by Willa Cather as something soft and wild and free; something that lightens the heart. Indeed, with an itinerary that explores canyons, mountains and grasslands, a walker's spirit is truly engaged.
Directly east of Tucson begins with the better known and more heavily visited East side of the Saguaro National Monument.
The SAGUARO PARK EAST section is located off Old Spanish Trail, 5 miles east of Broadway. There is a small admission fee. Permits for overnight trips may be obtained free of charge at the Visitor Center, open 8-5 daily. Phone number is (520) 733-5153. The Visitor Center located just inside the monument contains exhibits of desert geology, flora and fauna. Books, trail guides, brochures, maps, and a 12 minute slide program shown every 1/2 hour, as well as ranger-guided walks are available. There is a cactus garden with a variety of labeled plants
There are many ways to enjoy the east Monument. A scenic, paved, 8-mile Cactus Forest Drive winds through the foothills of the Rincon mountains. Views are fantastic. About 2.2 miles into the drive you'll find the Mica View Picnic area to the north. There are picnic tables and outhouses, but no water. Another .3 mile past the turnoff look for the Desert Ecology Trail on the left. On this 1/4 mile paved trail you can learn how plants and animals cope with the environment.
Freeman Homestead nature trail begins on the right, 200 yards down the spur road to the Javelina Picnic area which has shaded picnic tables and outhouses but no water. The 1-mile Freeman trail takes you through huge saguaro and into a wash filled with mesquite. There are various other trails and loops around. Consult your trail brochure from the Visitors Center. Longer trails include The Tanque Verde Ridge Trail which begins near the Javelina picnic area and climbs into the Rincon Mountain Wilderness. This is a fantastic hike, even if you go just a few miles. It is incredibly peaceful as few people ever bother to hike this far. If you go over 15 miles, you'll be in the Rincon mountains. They are very different from the lower desert. You can enjoy woodlands of scrub oak and ponderosa pine and douglas fir. Just remember: You need to bring one gallon of water per person, per day. Pace yourself and rest often. Don't forget to bring something to snack on, such as trail mix, fruits, Wha Guru Chu's, almond butter bars, etc. For longer hikes bring more food and water.
It's preferable to hike or bike between October and April, as daytime temperatures rarely exceed a refreshing 65-75 degrees. Remember though, in Winter temperatures drop rapidly after Sunset and nighttime lows can reach freezing. It is fine to hike during the warmer months, but try to arrive at dawn to start longer hikes. Once temperatures reach the 90's, rest OFTEN and drink plenty of the water you have brought with you. Once again: there is no water along the trails. Also in summer months beware of sever thunderstorms known as monsoons. You'll want to avoid the lightning and beware of flash floods if you are on low ground.
The Douglas Spring Trail beginning at the end of Speedway, is a 15 mile round-trip which covers a diverse range of vegetation ending up in an oak woodland and pine forest community at Cowhead Saddle. The climb from 2700 to 6200 feet is steepest near the end of the trail. No water is available despite the name. There are seasonal springs, though it is best not to depend on their availability. Several trails interconnect from the end of Broadway lead into the mountains. Fantastic views of the mountains and city combine to make this an unforgettable trip.
South of Tucson, are well-known for the incredible variety of birds
that frequent the north canyons, particularly, the area known as
Madera Canyon. The Super Trail\Old
Baldy Trail hike begins at Madera Canyon (exit I-19 at Continental Road/Madera
Canyon) parking lot. This 16 mile round-trip climbs in elevation from 5240
to the top of Mount Wrightson's 9453 feet summit. This strenuous
hike is a gruelling, tough climb and not recommended for most hikers. Be
sure to bring binoculars so you may see a wide diversity of birds. From
the summit, you will find a fantastic view of Whipple Observatory atop
neighboring Mt. Hopkins as well as a 360 view of Southern Arizona and
Northern Mexico. Madera Canyon with its forests of oak, manzanita and alligator
juniper
http://www.cybergeo.com/tucsontrails2.html